Danke
... to the lands and its peoples. I had the privilege to see the best of you.
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Showing posts with label Albania. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Albania. Show all posts
1 Jan 2012
Gratitude
One Thing I planned to do for some time now and is a bit overdue by now. Here is to prayers:
Danke
Dziękuję barzo
Dakujem vám
Köszönöm
Hvala lepa
Puno hvala
Hvala Vam
Faleminderit shumë
Blagodaram
Mnogo blagodarya
Efharisto poli
Çok teşekkür ederim
Danke
16 Nov 2011
Day 71: Fierze-Prizren
To my surprise I woke up before the alarm clock, I put on 8 a.m. rang. shortly after 8 the three of us were having coffee down in bar.I had no headache, but was only a bit dizzy. It was a bright, beautiful day despite the cloudy, cold past night (the cold did not change much though). After goodbye I was keen to at last, after 5 days idling and going in circles, to make a couple of kilometers eastwards, that actually would bring me closer to Istanbul.
I decided to take the easiest and closest way to Kosovo. Furthermore not having slept into the morning left me plenty of time to directly head for Prizren. My maps for that region are really crap. I just remembered, from google maps, that there should be a direct main road, following a side river of the Drin and only having a smaller pass to cross at the border to Kosovo. The road was well indicated, rather new and had little traffic. The valley was much larger than those I have crossed the last 3 days and harbored a lot of agriculture. It was great riding on asphalt again. I almost forgot how it feels, if you go at an average over 20km/h.
At the border, they asked me for the papers for the bicycle. I must have looked quite perplexed and was not sure if they expected a license plate on my bike or if they wanted to see the receipt. One of the guards spoke perfect German, and waved me through after a somewhat confusing conversation, were I still hadn't figured out what papers they wanted.
after the pass the air looked very misty. The ride to Gjakove was nice. low hills ahead of me and more cows and sheep. arriving in the small town I had a small lunch and pressed on. On the way closer to the Prizren I realized the myst to be smoke and dust. There was quite some trash burning along the road. On the last 16km things got a bit crazy traffic wise and I became really tense. Where before the drivers would pass me leaving space, now, with traffic into the opposite direction, they seemed not to be aware that they can lift their right foot a bit from the gas pedal, not to speak of using the pedal for the break. Their maneuvers got crazier. This was a bit of a shock after north Albania with less cars and where the people (like in Slowakia) did not seem in a hurry and I felt looked out for. The worst was if I was alone into my direction and in the column of cars on the other side of the road, some drivers would try to overpass another. For them I did not seem to exist at all. The trucks would honk 1 second before they would pass, to indicate you will possibly get killed if you don't move aside. The best was an idiot, that wanted to pass a truck, just passing a crete of a hill, in a curve on a narrower bit of the road (he got three of those points, of which one should be enough to come to the decision not trying to overtake). I saw (beeing lower before the crete) a white line underneath the truck, being crossed by another pair of wheels. I thought; "huh, isn't it unlikely trying to overpass here????". Never the less I drove up the small slope beside the street to make as much space as possible. The driver did never show any sign of trying to abort his maneuver, nor was there any sign of apology towards my direction. He stared angry at the road, hitting the gas-pedal harder. I stood there for a couple of seconds, and crossed myself absentmindedly. This reminded me of Serbia, only with more cars. I got so worked up over reckless driving and the thought, that I'm completely disrespected, worse, my life seems to be worth nothing, thinking about the reasons these idiots of drivers could have. So I stopped at one of the many gas stations here and grabbed a soft drink and some sweets.The guy working there started a chat. He was laughing out loud, when I explained, accompanied with some pantomimes, the truck drives behavior and my reaction. "Well that's the people here, they don't want to be delayed." he said, I somehow this took away my anger. After half an hour I tackled the last 10km.
Prizen looked amazing. The big mountains, barely visible in the smoke-dust, standing in the background, the houses lit by the evening sun whose light was altered by these air condition in a weird way. On on the hill close to the center is a castle ruin, several churches and mosques are distributed throughout the city and a small river runs through the center.
After finding a pension, I went looking for a thick wool jumper without success. Then there was a tiny place, with two tables where one can eat burek (only). Another Kosovar was speaking with the older nice owner and helped translating. He turned out to be living in Stein-Saeckingen (10km from where I grew up) for the last 20 years. It was fun talking Swizerduetsch with him. The burek was fantastic, the best so far.
I decided to take the easiest and closest way to Kosovo. Furthermore not having slept into the morning left me plenty of time to directly head for Prizren. My maps for that region are really crap. I just remembered, from google maps, that there should be a direct main road, following a side river of the Drin and only having a smaller pass to cross at the border to Kosovo. The road was well indicated, rather new and had little traffic. The valley was much larger than those I have crossed the last 3 days and harbored a lot of agriculture. It was great riding on asphalt again. I almost forgot how it feels, if you go at an average over 20km/h.
At the border, they asked me for the papers for the bicycle. I must have looked quite perplexed and was not sure if they expected a license plate on my bike or if they wanted to see the receipt. One of the guards spoke perfect German, and waved me through after a somewhat confusing conversation, were I still hadn't figured out what papers they wanted.
after the pass the air looked very misty. The ride to Gjakove was nice. low hills ahead of me and more cows and sheep. arriving in the small town I had a small lunch and pressed on. On the way closer to the Prizren I realized the myst to be smoke and dust. There was quite some trash burning along the road. On the last 16km things got a bit crazy traffic wise and I became really tense. Where before the drivers would pass me leaving space, now, with traffic into the opposite direction, they seemed not to be aware that they can lift their right foot a bit from the gas pedal, not to speak of using the pedal for the break. Their maneuvers got crazier. This was a bit of a shock after north Albania with less cars and where the people (like in Slowakia) did not seem in a hurry and I felt looked out for. The worst was if I was alone into my direction and in the column of cars on the other side of the road, some drivers would try to overpass another. For them I did not seem to exist at all. The trucks would honk 1 second before they would pass, to indicate you will possibly get killed if you don't move aside. The best was an idiot, that wanted to pass a truck, just passing a crete of a hill, in a curve on a narrower bit of the road (he got three of those points, of which one should be enough to come to the decision not trying to overtake). I saw (beeing lower before the crete) a white line underneath the truck, being crossed by another pair of wheels. I thought; "huh, isn't it unlikely trying to overpass here????". Never the less I drove up the small slope beside the street to make as much space as possible. The driver did never show any sign of trying to abort his maneuver, nor was there any sign of apology towards my direction. He stared angry at the road, hitting the gas-pedal harder. I stood there for a couple of seconds, and crossed myself absentmindedly. This reminded me of Serbia, only with more cars. I got so worked up over reckless driving and the thought, that I'm completely disrespected, worse, my life seems to be worth nothing, thinking about the reasons these idiots of drivers could have. So I stopped at one of the many gas stations here and grabbed a soft drink and some sweets.The guy working there started a chat. He was laughing out loud, when I explained, accompanied with some pantomimes, the truck drives behavior and my reaction. "Well that's the people here, they don't want to be delayed." he said, I somehow this took away my anger. After half an hour I tackled the last 10km.
Prizen looked amazing. The big mountains, barely visible in the smoke-dust, standing in the background, the houses lit by the evening sun whose light was altered by these air condition in a weird way. On on the hill close to the center is a castle ruin, several churches and mosques are distributed throughout the city and a small river runs through the center.
After finding a pension, I went looking for a thick wool jumper without success. Then there was a tiny place, with two tables where one can eat burek (only). Another Kosovar was speaking with the older nice owner and helped translating. He turned out to be living in Stein-Saeckingen (10km from where I grew up) for the last 20 years. It was fun talking Swizerduetsch with him. The burek was fantastic, the best so far.
Day 70: Gushte-Fierze
Waiting for the ship to come...
Yesterday I got an unexpected call from Daniel. He told me they would wait in Fierze if I don't need to press on. In half a day it is not possible to cross the border to Kosovo and make it to then next town there, and besides following a schedule instead of enjoying time in good company seems like a bad idea anyway, even with winter coming. I will need to find more and warmer clothes soon.
The boat trip to Fierze was amazing. The landscapes of north albania continue to astonish me. Here and there the boat would do a touch and go, dropping of people and their good, they carried with them or picking others up. There was no pear for the ship at all. Since the mountains descend steeply into the lake, the ship can come close enough. is is still amazing, how quick the people were on this rather difficult terrain, unloading even a heavy metal stove (to be used with wood) plus its accessories in no time.While smoking on the abaft, behind the cabin of the boat, where it was a bit wind sheltered, I got to chat with a couple of locals, that told me that some of them had come around in northern Europe quite a bit (Amsterdam, Hamburg...), showed me on which mountain their houses were, or those of relatives. They seemed fairly proud of their land and they have all reason to be. The diversity of products they grow in these difficult terrain is quite impressive.
From the harbor in Fierze, I had a short distance, to the village and that was all riding I got done on this lazy day. After I had a coffee in one of the three bars, that are located around the round, central square of the village, Daniel and Paul joined me, coming back from a short round trip in the surrounding mountains. We were all starving and decided to go with the car to Dojan, the next small town 10km away to get something warm and decent to eat. We found a grill restaurant, where the meat was tasty but a bit hard-bitten. To my deception, they had no baclawa for dessert, actually they had nothing for dessert at all. But Paul told me, that they have some very sweet croissants with honey, we could have back in the apartment. Back in Fierze we went to a bar for a couple of beers. When the bar keeper wanted to close up, Paul went a bit shopping in the marked across the central square.
In the small apartment (hotel) we managed to finish all the beer Paul thought to be more than enough, however we ended up having more than enough. As a nice surprise the very sweet honey-croissants turned out the be baclawa and I even go my desired dessert. The astray was filled to the rim, from the outside it must have looked as the apartment was burning. So after many discussions I got to bed around 2 a.m.
Day 69: Skoder-Gushte
Aiming for the feary leaving at 10 a.m. To Fierze, I got up very early wanting to leave around 7. I had around 50 km to make and thought it should be doable in three hours (if everything runs smoothly).
Yesterday I wanted to settle the hotel bill, to avoid loosing time in the morning, but I was told that doing it in the morning would be fine too, despite me insisting. And I did losse half and hour looking for somebody taking my money. I tried to make it never the less, hope dies last...
After a couple of kilometers out of the city rthe road turns east, following the river Drina, which forms natural lakes, and further up and artificial one. In this valley a strong head wind greated me and today I learned, that a very strong head wind can't have the a similar effect as a very stony road. I pushed as hard as I could one the asphalted road and just managed to get an average speed of 15km/h out of it. Shortly before Gushte I crossed a black Peugeot and thought, that it looks very familiar. The car stopped and Daniel and Paul, I crossed two days ago in Boge, greated me.
They also tried too catch the feary, but for cars, there is one every week. They told me though, that it should be possible too hire a small boat. We agreed too meet in Fierze, they taking the road around the mountains and me trying the water way.
I was pretty exhausted, when I arrived at the small port, and went into the small bar looking for information. The bar keeper spoke a little english. After I explained my situation it first looked as somebody would take me, but in the ende it turned out too be a joke. Jep, they had good fun with me.
Next too the bar, there was a hotel. In the bar there were two young guys having their brandy. After a bit of talking, it became apparent, that this was by far not their first glass. It was a weird situation, I never was offered a room for such a low price by a completly wasted keeper. After a bit of suspicion, I decided, that they were just wasted but did not seem too malicious and took the room.
Later in the eavening then keeper was back and a bit sobered up. I gave him and his fried a couple of aspirin. It was cosy sitting some time with a small bunch of guys, listening too their story telling and their debates.
13 Nov 2011
Day 68: Theth-Shkoder
The sun was already over the mountain tops of the steep valley, when I got outside. I got a good breakfast before leaving. The feta was home made and tasted brilliant, accompanied by some savoury pan cakes and honey.
The discussions about the road to Valbona and another look at the high and steep mountains brought me to the decision of taking the road through the vally south of the one I came through yesterday, heading back to Skoder. It was a bit painful having to go back, but the road further east takes 6 hours for a good hiker. Furthermore last night was very cold and risking having to pass the night another 1000m up is asking for serious trouble. However the trip was already worth it anyway, also if it turned out to be a detour on my way east.
The river I followed this time had a lot of water and was a real beauty. As yesterday the weather was sunny, not a cloud one the sky and the air was dry, clear and cold. At one of the rapids I lingered a bit, observing the water working the stones forming eddies that threw shadows on the ground. The stones were white-gray and the water green-blue. Actually later one was very transparent and I wondered where its colors come from.
And then the stony road went up, up. After then first pass it went a bit down and then up again. It was hard work with then sun in my face. But during the breaks I forgot time and fatigue letting my eyes wander over this amazing landscape. The trees still have some leaves...
Before I reached then second pass, I realized that I underestimated the difficult road again and I was short one time again. Before the downhill ride started I dried my clothes and put the rain protection for the shoes to keep the wind off. The valley I descened into bacame an impressive canyon. But it was hard work riding this road. It went down hard on material (the hook of one front bag broke off and the wheels will need some maintenance) and my, endurance.
When I arrived in Precal, where the road finally got a bit better it was past four. There was a bar and I took a coffee, Iibought some sugar-stuff and asked if there is a place to stay. In Shkoder there is, was the answer. So I rode into the night and arrived around six. Luckily the road was asphalted...
I went back to that traditional place I noticed when I first arrived in Shkoder. There I welcomed by the owner himself, who invited me for a rakie, saying this would warm me up. He grew up in Belgium and we had a nice chat in french. He also told me a bit about Albanian history. It was a very, nice welcome back in this city.
The discussions about the road to Valbona and another look at the high and steep mountains brought me to the decision of taking the road through the vally south of the one I came through yesterday, heading back to Skoder. It was a bit painful having to go back, but the road further east takes 6 hours for a good hiker. Furthermore last night was very cold and risking having to pass the night another 1000m up is asking for serious trouble. However the trip was already worth it anyway, also if it turned out to be a detour on my way east.
The river I followed this time had a lot of water and was a real beauty. As yesterday the weather was sunny, not a cloud one the sky and the air was dry, clear and cold. At one of the rapids I lingered a bit, observing the water working the stones forming eddies that threw shadows on the ground. The stones were white-gray and the water green-blue. Actually later one was very transparent and I wondered where its colors come from.
And then the stony road went up, up. After then first pass it went a bit down and then up again. It was hard work with then sun in my face. But during the breaks I forgot time and fatigue letting my eyes wander over this amazing landscape. The trees still have some leaves...
Before I reached then second pass, I realized that I underestimated the difficult road again and I was short one time again. Before the downhill ride started I dried my clothes and put the rain protection for the shoes to keep the wind off. The valley I descened into bacame an impressive canyon. But it was hard work riding this road. It went down hard on material (the hook of one front bag broke off and the wheels will need some maintenance) and my, endurance.
When I arrived in Precal, where the road finally got a bit better it was past four. There was a bar and I took a coffee, Iibought some sugar-stuff and asked if there is a place to stay. In Shkoder there is, was the answer. So I rode into the night and arrived around six. Luckily the road was asphalted...
I went back to that traditional place I noticed when I first arrived in Shkoder. There I welcomed by the owner himself, who invited me for a rakie, saying this would warm me up. He grew up in Belgium and we had a nice chat in french. He also told me a bit about Albanian history. It was a very, nice welcome back in this city.
Day 67: Shkoder-Theth
After having a pizza and a couple of beers with Toby, Peers, and Dan I called it and, early night.
I the morning I got up with the sun and was before eight on the road. The main road out of, Shkoder was one of, the worst I've seen. Cars curving around holes and the hole thing was very muddy. I just reached the suburbs of the town, when I had a flat tire. I checked and indeed, I had the 4000km.
In Kolgliku I turned east for the mountains and at the exit of the village there was a bunch of boys shouting hello and other stuff. They also pointed one the bulding next to them, where Bar was sprayed on the wall. I just had coffee so I pushed on. Then I heard stones hitting the asphalt behind me and rolling in my direction. I turned around and saw the bunch of boys standing in then middle of then street shouting (with a less friendly tone) and throwing stones. Intentionality or not, their aim was not so good and I got away without meeting one of their projectiles.
I followed a dryed out river into the valley and then road started to go up slighy. Shortly before Boge, while I had, a short break, a white mercedes stopped next to me (b.t.w. I got the impression they have thing for white mercedes here). An older man lowered the window and asked me where I'm from and some of then usual questions. When he heard about my destination, he asked if I knew about the road and I suspected already and explanation about, why then car ride to Theth takes four hours. And he mentioned, that in Boge it will get a bit difficult and finished by, telling me; "if you arrive in Theth, you will like it there, they will take care of you. Be careful!"
Later I realized that the "if" which I took for a "when", was probably chosen knowingly and not because of a translating error.
In Boge I then saw a gravel road with lots of bigger stones and decided to go for a coffee before tackling it. in then bar I met Paul and Daniel, two austrians travelling the balkan by car. We chatted for about and hour while having loads of delicious coffee. They also had a stone-throw-story among many others.
Around one p.m. I finally took off again, followed by Daniel and Paul in their car. They did not manage to leave the village, since a woman came to their car, convincing them that they would not pass. She was absolutely right I thought half an hour later. The road made me go very slow and making it a challange to find the least bumpy line between stones and rocks.
The valley and the mountains where absolutely breath taking (combined withe the road this was a struggle to get enough oxigen into the lungs). These landscapes are so far the wildest and most complex I've seen on this journey.
After an hour I checked my progress one the map and had a glimpse at the track-stats. After I calculated the time for the remaining distance I realized, that I could, now use that hour I was chatting and forgetting about lunch. I had no more safty hour, that I like to have, since my maps don't tell me which bits are going up and which down. So I decided to push through and have only very short breaks for the remaining 3 hours.
When I reached the pass, I realized with releave that the rest of the distance is downhill. I rushed one, with bearly and hour to sundown. The it got freaking cold, me all wet, not moving much, realizing how I miss that lunch now in the shadow facing a chilly wind. By the time I put on all the clothes, I cooled down a bit to much already. I stuffed my hands in my mouth a couple of times, to get some feeling back. Then trying to go a bit faster on then rocky road, I got my second flat tire. "well catching up for then one that was missed out around 3000 km, are we", I thought and fixed it as fast as I could.
The road was steep and the serpentine seemed never ending. In a momemt when I could take my eyes off then road I saw then mountains in the red light and stopped in awe.
In was getting almost dark, when I, reached then bridge before Theth. There a boy came and he was guessing right that I was looking for a room. So he took me to his parents house helped me unload the bike and took it for a ride around the house. They made a fire and just, started then generator when I arrived. It was sooo nice, sitting at then fire warming up again. I was in the company of the patriarch of the house having a chat using sign language about the roads and mostly sitting quietly offering eachother cigarettes, smoking.
After dinner, the boy, Francescothe youngest doing all the english talking and translating, and his brothers where playing "ciao sepp" with me. I did not know that this cardgame is, played outside of my home country. It was a serine eavening. I had fun learning a few new cheats from then boys.
I the morning I got up with the sun and was before eight on the road. The main road out of, Shkoder was one of, the worst I've seen. Cars curving around holes and the hole thing was very muddy. I just reached the suburbs of the town, when I had a flat tire. I checked and indeed, I had the 4000km.
In Kolgliku I turned east for the mountains and at the exit of the village there was a bunch of boys shouting hello and other stuff. They also pointed one the bulding next to them, where Bar was sprayed on the wall. I just had coffee so I pushed on. Then I heard stones hitting the asphalt behind me and rolling in my direction. I turned around and saw the bunch of boys standing in then middle of then street shouting (with a less friendly tone) and throwing stones. Intentionality or not, their aim was not so good and I got away without meeting one of their projectiles.
I followed a dryed out river into the valley and then road started to go up slighy. Shortly before Boge, while I had, a short break, a white mercedes stopped next to me (b.t.w. I got the impression they have thing for white mercedes here). An older man lowered the window and asked me where I'm from and some of then usual questions. When he heard about my destination, he asked if I knew about the road and I suspected already and explanation about, why then car ride to Theth takes four hours. And he mentioned, that in Boge it will get a bit difficult and finished by, telling me; "if you arrive in Theth, you will like it there, they will take care of you. Be careful!"
Later I realized that the "if" which I took for a "when", was probably chosen knowingly and not because of a translating error.
In Boge I then saw a gravel road with lots of bigger stones and decided to go for a coffee before tackling it. in then bar I met Paul and Daniel, two austrians travelling the balkan by car. We chatted for about and hour while having loads of delicious coffee. They also had a stone-throw-story among many others.
Around one p.m. I finally took off again, followed by Daniel and Paul in their car. They did not manage to leave the village, since a woman came to their car, convincing them that they would not pass. She was absolutely right I thought half an hour later. The road made me go very slow and making it a challange to find the least bumpy line between stones and rocks.
The valley and the mountains where absolutely breath taking (combined withe the road this was a struggle to get enough oxigen into the lungs). These landscapes are so far the wildest and most complex I've seen on this journey.
After an hour I checked my progress one the map and had a glimpse at the track-stats. After I calculated the time for the remaining distance I realized, that I could, now use that hour I was chatting and forgetting about lunch. I had no more safty hour, that I like to have, since my maps don't tell me which bits are going up and which down. So I decided to push through and have only very short breaks for the remaining 3 hours.
When I reached the pass, I realized with releave that the rest of the distance is downhill. I rushed one, with bearly and hour to sundown. The it got freaking cold, me all wet, not moving much, realizing how I miss that lunch now in the shadow facing a chilly wind. By the time I put on all the clothes, I cooled down a bit to much already. I stuffed my hands in my mouth a couple of times, to get some feeling back. Then trying to go a bit faster on then rocky road, I got my second flat tire. "well catching up for then one that was missed out around 3000 km, are we", I thought and fixed it as fast as I could.
The road was steep and the serpentine seemed never ending. In a momemt when I could take my eyes off then road I saw then mountains in the red light and stopped in awe.
In was getting almost dark, when I, reached then bridge before Theth. There a boy came and he was guessing right that I was looking for a room. So he took me to his parents house helped me unload the bike and took it for a ride around the house. They made a fire and just, started then generator when I arrived. It was sooo nice, sitting at then fire warming up again. I was in the company of the patriarch of the house having a chat using sign language about the roads and mostly sitting quietly offering eachother cigarettes, smoking.
After dinner, the boy, Francescothe youngest doing all the english talking and translating, and his brothers where playing "ciao sepp" with me. I did not know that this cardgame is, played outside of my home country. It was a serine eavening. I had fun learning a few new cheats from then boys.
10 Nov 2011
Day 65-66: Shkoder
I slept india the day asking long as I could... Until nine.
Did I say I like the city?
Since I'm tired of walking the cities in my biking shoes, it's time to get a second pair of light shoes. The clicking of the cleats was pissing me of for too long. So I was asking, back at the tourist information, for a, shopping center and she indicated me the way. After following the instructions, I found myself in a kind of bazaar, where most of the shops where half of the street. No H&M, no Esprit, actually I did not see a single one of these food and cloth chains that usually occupy the city centers in Middle Europe. So I was wandering for hours through this chaotic market without finding what I was looking for. The shops often do not seem to have a certain category of goods but more a mix of whatever they could lay hands on. So it's was hard for me to navigate without the normal logos pointing me towards the right direction. But it's was fun observing this bazaar. Around 2 p.m. I needed a break, went to the hotel and washed some cloth. And an hour later, when I wanted to go back to some shops I took note of earlier, certain merchants where already starting to closed up for the day. So I got a bit in a rush, to get what I wanted, but just managed getting shoes and trousers. And look! Me looking all civilised again. Now it feels really like a day of from cycling. Should have done that earlier or even better I should have packed the stuff in the first place, insted of putting the jeans back in the wardrobe. However it is really cheep to shop here.
After this I got myself a kebab. here they put fries in it and the meat is really good, with a structure and taste. B.t.w. Since I left Germany, I very rarely saw this homogeneous looking kebab grills, those with meat that was first mashed and then squeezed around the bar.
The weather is looking good, maybe small showers tomorrow but, then sunshine! Let's hope the weather frogs are right. The nights are around -5 though. But my guide book strongly recommends not to campe freely, especially in the north, so that's two reasons to look for a room. Also the lady from the tourist information today, was telling me a lot of stuff differently than her college from yesterday, so I'm not really sure if the route I chose is really rideable. So it was for instance said, that the journey too Theth takes 4 hours by car. My maps indicate a distance of 70 km. so what road makes a car go at 17km/h ?
But I'm about too find out anyway.
When I woke up this morning, I decided to stay another day, hanging a bit more, write some post cards and most importantly, doing nothing (giving the muscles time to relax)
Around midday, I just came back from the post office, I ran into the english boys again. They stood next to the tourist information, which was closed, while a voice from the top of the minaret was calling to say grace. So we went for a coffee together and exchanged the latest news. It appears they had a couple of intense days behind, Mark left the bunch to start his job in Milano, they got invited in Bosnia and got a chance to rakie with the hosts, Toby had his birthday (celebrated) and a guy helped them out finding shelter in a football club in Montenegro, when they got caught by bad weather.
When they decided to check into a hostel I left to take a stroll through the city. It was all sunny and I just lingered and got lost in the streets.
Did I say I like the city?
Since I'm tired of walking the cities in my biking shoes, it's time to get a second pair of light shoes. The clicking of the cleats was pissing me of for too long. So I was asking, back at the tourist information, for a, shopping center and she indicated me the way. After following the instructions, I found myself in a kind of bazaar, where most of the shops where half of the street. No H&M, no Esprit, actually I did not see a single one of these food and cloth chains that usually occupy the city centers in Middle Europe. So I was wandering for hours through this chaotic market without finding what I was looking for. The shops often do not seem to have a certain category of goods but more a mix of whatever they could lay hands on. So it's was hard for me to navigate without the normal logos pointing me towards the right direction. But it's was fun observing this bazaar. Around 2 p.m. I needed a break, went to the hotel and washed some cloth. And an hour later, when I wanted to go back to some shops I took note of earlier, certain merchants where already starting to closed up for the day. So I got a bit in a rush, to get what I wanted, but just managed getting shoes and trousers. And look! Me looking all civilised again. Now it feels really like a day of from cycling. Should have done that earlier or even better I should have packed the stuff in the first place, insted of putting the jeans back in the wardrobe. However it is really cheep to shop here.
After this I got myself a kebab. here they put fries in it and the meat is really good, with a structure and taste. B.t.w. Since I left Germany, I very rarely saw this homogeneous looking kebab grills, those with meat that was first mashed and then squeezed around the bar.
The weather is looking good, maybe small showers tomorrow but, then sunshine! Let's hope the weather frogs are right. The nights are around -5 though. But my guide book strongly recommends not to campe freely, especially in the north, so that's two reasons to look for a room. Also the lady from the tourist information today, was telling me a lot of stuff differently than her college from yesterday, so I'm not really sure if the route I chose is really rideable. So it was for instance said, that the journey too Theth takes 4 hours by car. My maps indicate a distance of 70 km. so what road makes a car go at 17km/h ?
But I'm about too find out anyway.
When I woke up this morning, I decided to stay another day, hanging a bit more, write some post cards and most importantly, doing nothing (giving the muscles time to relax)
Around midday, I just came back from the post office, I ran into the english boys again. They stood next to the tourist information, which was closed, while a voice from the top of the minaret was calling to say grace. So we went for a coffee together and exchanged the latest news. It appears they had a couple of intense days behind, Mark left the bunch to start his job in Milano, they got invited in Bosnia and got a chance to rakie with the hosts, Toby had his birthday (celebrated) and a guy helped them out finding shelter in a football club in Montenegro, when they got caught by bad weather.
When they decided to check into a hostel I left to take a stroll through the city. It was all sunny and I just lingered and got lost in the streets.
9 Nov 2011
Day 64: Budva-Shkoder
I woke up several times from the rain during the night. But to my releaf it stopped raining by the time I went for breakfast. I changed my plans to explore the inner country of Montenegro and stained one the coast. I'm craving a day of relaxing, but I want to find a place worthwhile, so I decided to try my luck in Shkoder and take the short road to reach it. from there I want to head in the Albanian mountains in the north. After studying the topography and and osm I found some small roads and interesting terrain to look for a challange. But first I need regather.
To road along the coast lead through one hotel town after another. I also realized why the fijord yesterday was not like the rest of the coast, at the entrance there was a big signpost with the unesco logos on it. Crazy that these days, if you want to protect a beautiful place, you need uneso-regulations or make it a national park, where you charge visitors at the entry to support an army of rangers cleaning and protecting the place. If you don't do that, the mans avarice for profit will destroy it all. Stupid white man.
This morning when I checked out, I saw a postcard of a nice old town. I asked the beautiful receptionist if this is from here, and she said that indeed it's the old town of Budva, ten minutes from the hotel. I completely overlooked it yesterday, while my eye was caught by all these hotel complexes.
In bar I went for a coffee and here it was time to say goodbye to the mediterranean sea, snif.
From bar I took a smaller road taking me up in a higher valley and away from the coast. Looking back to the sea, I saw a couple of rain clouds emptying themselves over the sea, moving towards the coast. Better the sea gets a bit "sweeter" than me getting soaking wet.
As I rode through the suburbs of Bar, I got more and more reactions from the people. In the valley there was also agriculture, something I had not seen in Montenegro yet. And suddenly, looking at the cretes of the hills south of the valley, I felt like something rattled in the memorybox. It was nice to see these bear white-gray rocks, with sharp characteristic shapes. They were surrounded by autumn colored trees. This is the second time now. The first one was during a snack stop with the english boys. We chose a small lagoon, and there was also a statue of Maria in a small grotto. Probably these memories where from my childhood from one of those times my family and me took the land way to reach Greece during a summer holiday. But this is around twenty years ago and the ghosts I encouter are so weak, that I'm not sure if they are there at all.
As this valley slowly went down towards the plane where I expected the border to Albania and not far behind the city of Shkoder, the clouds and the fare mountains of the Albanien alps were a spectacular view.
After the border reaching suburbs againg I could not help noticing that all the wealth and shinyness seems to be concentrated at the coast. Some make a lot of money in real-estate and the others get feed up working around the hordes of all-inclusive-tourists.
But the kids here were really cool. Almost all oder them greated me, or ran towards the street stretching out the had to get a five from me, or shouting stuff I interpreted as encouraging.
Traffic in the city was chaotic, cyclists were using both lanes of the street in both directions and small motorcycles, often with ladies sitting one the back with both legs on one side (ladylike) were contributing to the tumult. The cars were watching out though, actually everybody was, and nobody seemed to abuse one the gas pedal. So it was a rather relaxed chaos.
I stopped at a hotel a bit away from the center to ask what a room costs. It turned out to be rather fancy. When I said to, the receptionist that this is too porsh for me, he shrugged and replied; "it's not poor it's traditional"
The town does not have a very touristic allure, but there was a tourim information where I got help to, find a cheap accommodation. On they way there at a crossroad an old man was asking me where I come from, luckily his son (I assumed) was there and translated. He also was joking that he has a daughter to marry.
I like the city, quite authentic.
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