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Showing posts with label Slovakia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Slovakia. Show all posts

1 Jan 2012

Gratitude

One Thing I planned to do for some time now and is a bit overdue by now. Here is to prayers:


Danke
Dziękuję barzo
Dakujem vám
Köszönöm
Hvala lepa
Puno hvala
Hvala Vam
Faleminderit shumë
Blagodaram
Mnogo blagodarya
Efharisto poli
Çok teşekkür ederim

... to the lands and its peoples. I had the privilege to see the best of you.

13 Oct 2011

Day 37: Stara Huta-Budapest

Yesterday I somehow managed to loose the one and a half liter water bottle somwhere on the last kilometers, so no tee in the morning, but an amazing sunrise, while the full moon was still at the sky. Beautiful.
It was the first nice day since I entered Slovakia, it was all sunny but there was a nasty cold wind. Can't have it all...
So I headed for the frontier. On the way there the hills got smaller and since I took all asphalt roads today (not wanting the same as yesterday happening again), these roads even went around the bigger hills. Since I took off very early (8am) today, by midday I had 50km behind me as well as the frontier. While sitting in a cafe, I checked the maps and tried to decide how far to go. I checked the routes to Budapest and noticed, that this is another 90km at least to go. So I set another point at half way I thought, I'll see how it goes and there I can decide wether to do it all or look for a place to sleep. Somehow, in my head,  I was already set to arrive in Budapest today. There I planed to have a longer break, and I needed it now. This will be really sport, I thought, having five hours until sunset, this would be rather close to make it.
So I hit the road and I went fast. Somwhere on the way on a road going along a field, there was a deer that fled pretty late and we ended up going in parallel for a bit. Then it stoped close to the road, apparently it wanted to cross it. I stopped too and we looked at each other. I tried to take a photo and the deer run further to cross the road in front of me to head towards the woods on the other side. They move so graciously, these animals. When they jump, they seem suspended in midair for this fraction of a second.
So after an hour of good advancing it was clear to me; I have the wind in my back, so I will reach out to Budapest. After two hours and a couple of minutes, I had almost another fifty km. I paused, ate all what was left of food in my bag and tried to dry all the soaked cloth in the sun. A good half an hour later I was on my bike again, feeling the legs getting a bit tired. When I came to a village, there was a white dog. After I caught up with it, it decided to run along with me. First I thought it's just doing its round, marking here and there at a fence, where behind, the dog of the hous would bark like mad. It was a pleasure seeing how this white dog made fun of the other bloody barkers. I thought, great, this handsome fellow is taking revenge at my place. The village was a long one, and at some point I got a little worried about the dog running around me, corssing the street, comming back etc. Since I was closing up on Budapest it was finished with the calm roads and the traffic increased with each couple of kilometers. So I stopped, called 'come here ghost dog'. It actually came to me, sniffed my hand, I gave it a couple of strokes and padded it before telling it to go. And so we parted. I generally hate dogs, most of them have bad character, if they have some at all. But here I thought, maybe it a bit like with humans, the jerks are the same everywhere.
The last bit of road to Budapest was not so nice. In Slovakia and the first bit of Hungary, there where first of all not many cars and secondly the ones crossing me where really cool. But closer to the city it gets all crazy. All these stressed people, that are in a hurry to get somewhere and risk your life to get there five minutes earlier. One might think they are on a godly mission, ready to sacrifice your life for some greater good. But I'm sure, talking to most of these people, they would appear very friendly. Funny that  these good people then go, steal for some bank or work for an industry that is messing up the environment.
I finally arrived in Budapest at dusk, I just made it. But it took me some time before I found a place to stay. The fist hostel (osmand) turned out to be a four or five star hotel... not quite in my budget... The second one was one of these appartement renting things, where you only could check in by e-mail. So I went to the next bar, had an espresso and some wifi, and finally arrived the Backpack King. Here I was offerd a Hungarian 'Zwetschge Schnaps' as welcome. That was great.
Jep, quite a day. new personaly record for a days distance: 150km (1800m gain in altitude). Furthermore I crossed the 2Mm mark today.
Now I'm exhausted, just managed to have some fast food and now I'm looking forward for a good nights sleep and one or two days relaxing here in Budapest.

Day 36: Banska Bystryca-Stara Huta

I forgot to mention in yesterdays post, that on the trail down towards Vazna I saw a deer. Beautiful creature, probably about 8 years (I couldn't properly count in that short moment. That was nice after having seen a couple of does and hearing deers in Germany and Poland, to actually see one.
After having put myself in dry cloth and after hanging everything up to dry I first needed to properly eat. Goulash with Knoedel, hmm... After that there was not so much of the day left to looks at the city and anyway I was very tired.
This morning I decided to chose and easy route and head south towards the border, crossing the Slovak "Erzgebige". On the map it should have been a natural road (no asphalt but a car could pass) but it turned out to be a hiking trail. And again, the last couple of meters in altitude where really steep and a lot of dead branches lay around. Here I lost my temper and was really pissed of. This fucking trail just went straight up the small mountain. What about good old serpentine trails, there was surely enough space for it. so I pushed and cursed for a good hour.
The landscape was very rewarding though. The mountains covered by big forests shining in all colours. The falling leaves were dancing in the airport and the wind cleared the sky a bit so there was sunshine from time to time. The ride downhill was adorable. First the trail was completely covered in yellow leaves and the last bit was over and open field, which had an astonishingly flat surface.
I really love the landscapes of Slovakia and everywhere you find water from sources, beautiful.

11 Oct 2011

Day 35: High Fatra (middle of nowhere)-Banska Bystryca

I woke up several times during the night, also without and alarm clock, the howling of the wind kept me awake. The surface of the spot I chose in a hurry was not optimal either, it was rather bumpy. The floor of the tent was all Iiwet. Since there was snow underneath, the water condensed there.
So I got up at 7. My hopes that the sunshine would wake my was not fulfilled. It rained a couple of times during the night and in the morning it was drizzling. It seemed as the wind was chasing clouds over the crete. Their humidity just condensed everywhere and sometimes also in thing air. It seemed like in a steam bath. So I ate the little food I had left. Most of the stock was made up of grop. This was lopsided but I would not need to suffer hunger.
So I tried to dry the shoes, that were still soaked. I managed to get them to a state that it would not feel like a foot bath anymore bye abusing my towel.
Everything was wet, all my stuff including my feet. After packing, the tent was twice as heavy, I went for the second half of the crete trail. I thanked the gods that most of the snow melted over night, luckey me... So today I could ride the bigger parts, where yesterday it was exhausting pushing and carrying. The atmosphere was strange, the thick myst and the harsh wind blowing it in eddies over the mountains and right, in my face. After a couple more up and downs over the tricky terrain I reached the woods again and the trail got better and allowed more fluent riding. Also the trees protected me from the wind and the air was less moist. Finally the trail became really beatiful and the only effort was in my fingers and mentally. By mtb this would have been twice as fast at least and another ton of fun more. But I was happy the trail was not demanding more physical efort and I was kimd of proud to be able to ride this trail with my touring bike without any, suspension and 30kg of luggage.
When the single trail joined the asphalt road again I stopped to wringen the socks and the gloves. Then I was eager to get to Besenova Bystryca to find a hostel and dry myself and my stuff, so hit the pedals hard. Funny, the biggest part of the, distance did not even take half of the time.
So... Lesson learned, do not head for the mountains with white tops, unless your thirsting for adventure. I shook my head a couple of times when realizing how badly I underestimated this really difficult, even dangerous combination of terrain and, weather conditions. I was really lucky there was and unusually warm wind blowing last night. So much naivete, my good... Typical beginners faults (like check topographic maps, that osm is not, if you go for this kind of trip, to mention just one). Ironically this made me feel veeeeery young. However, I will be very careful not lay survival in the hads of luck, especially if I should know better. My father would say: "give the luck reservoir time to refill". I will.

Day 34: Besenova-High Fatra (some mountain)

Well where to start...
Is wanted to go to Banska Bystryca and I let Osmand calculate ab route. Is was really amazed about the route it found, I myself did not even, dare to look in that region for a route. My first reaction was, "is that rideable?", and I decided to go and find out. If I can't go through the High Tatra, it would be great not having to miss the Fatra too. The small asphalt road from Patrizanska Lupca leading south west into the narrow vally was a good choice for a start. At the end of it I saw snow on the mountain cretes, but calmed myself, by thinking, that there will be a way around. Five motorised vehicles passed me, I counted, all of them did not seemed in a rush, and respected me. It was very nice. Here and there I spotted what looked like dogs houses, but they were access points to drinking water from sources. They were even equipped with cups. The asphalt rode became a natural road and finally turned into a single trail. All rideable until the last 150m in altitude were left. So I started pushing wolter, then it was more like dragging/carrying. At some point I decided to go ahead by foot to see if it'll get better. So on the crete there was more snow, than what I've dragged wolter through already and it all looked stunning; the small snow drifts, the view... My god that view. I could overlook a huge part of the Slovak mountains: the High Tatra in the north east, before it the Small Tatra, in the north, the small Fatra and in, the south the "Erzgebige". I looked at the trail going along the cretes. It was of course snow snow covered, but I thought, well, after the mountain top ahead, it'll get rideable again. So the thirst for adventure let me take the decision to carrie wolter and the luggage the last bit to the crete. So I waked back and stared pulling. Finally I took the luggage in one go and the bike in another. So I walked these last 100m of altitude three times. I lost a lot of time. So I had 3 hours left to make almost 10 km of this crete trail. I started pushing wolter, loaded again through, the snow. On the next high point of the trail it went down and I could ride again. But the next high point revealed, that there will be a lot of up and down, in the snow. There were clouds and the sun greeted from between those from time to time. I heard only the wind and my steps and the view... This amazing view. Slowly I edged closer to exhaustion. So I tried to think again. It took me almost two hours to make half of the crete trail in these conditions, basically I completely underestimated this strech and was bearly advancing. So I started to push myself harder. But each time it went up in the snow, I needed to stop and breath every couple of meters. There was no way, the terrain with snow, and my heavy travelling device would let me find rhythm and continuity. So within the last hour it stared to dawn one me, that I will be, stuck in the middle of the crete trail at dusk. There was no trail heading back down into a side valley to shortcut. Then I stood before a longer strech upwards again, I thought maybe this will be the last one afterwards only downhill... So I left woltet again and went looking. The answer was no. Here I almost lost my calm. But I just got nervous and did not lose my grip. So I had to do what I was carefully avoiding so far: Camping above 1500m a.s. in the fucking snow. I was not even, sure if my sleeping bags still holds me warm with temperatures bellow 0°c.
So I went back to where I left wolter. My feet where soaking wet. Just bedore this upward strech of the trail there was a protected spot behind bushes. The wind otherwise went fast over that crete. I put up the tent in record time. Keeping the heat together was my greatest worry now. And I just managed to sit on the air mattress, having changed the wet cloth from the belly down by dry socks and a pair of long underwear I had left. Beeing wraped in the sleeping bag I started cooking tee with some snow. To my amazed even after sitting for half and hour, I felt comfortably warm. Then I heared water drops falling and realized that these where feom the melting snow on the bushes. Having already mentally prepared to put, the, alarm every hour to check for snowfall during the night, I got calm again. So I sipped at m Roibush and smoked while getting back to a peaceful state of mind.

9 Oct 2011

Day 33: Zuberec-Besenova

Today the weather got better. The air was humid, well I can't call it rain, and the sun lurked through the clouds from time to time. So I went for the next pass. There was very little traffic, it was a quiet Sunday. I worked my way up on the mountains, steaming, rhythmically. I concentrated on breathing most of the time. Yesterday I sucked the air through the mouth during greater efforts, coughing afterwards, when resting on the crete. The cold air irritated my lounges. Today I forced myself breathing in through the nose to heat up the air better. And it did the trick.
I also noticed, that in this environment I can concentrate better on cycling, actually I have to. Feel the muscles, adjust, listen to my breathing... The mountains humble me.
After the pass I saw a road sign indicating a thermal bath nearby which was commented by the though; "... and on the 33rd day of a bicycle-journey you shall relax in the hot waters..."
And so I did. Todays ride was bearly 40 km, so there was half a day left for indulging in wellness. Yeaah!

8 Oct 2011

Day 32: Rabka-Zdroj - Zuberec

... And , it was raining all night too, only I did not care much in my warm bed. I was waking up in the valley of the sun, surrounded by clouds that peered over the mountains from all sides. So eagerly I got on my bike and took of. After 5km I made a u-turn got back to the hostel, picked up stuff I left and tried again heading towards the first pass of the day close to Raba Wyna. And indeed, there was snow falling last night, which lay beside the road as I gained altitude. Climbing the last few meters, the road headed exactly south, the mountains of the Tatra appeared at the horizont. It was a very emotional moment, my eyes filled with tears of joy and release. The sky was black and the mountains white, it looked like heaven there.
But seeing the snow there I then was absolutely sure, that I won't venture through the heart of the Tatra. Yesterday I looked at a map and it's even hard to find hiking trails that cross the border from Poland to Slovakia and none of the trails crossing the Tatra north south was designated as bike trail. And my fathers comment about this areas wildness echoing in my mind, I don't want to go and try which of the hiking trails would be manageable with a touring bike. But it looks very tempting to return with a mtb.
Heading further to Chocholow and thus closing up one the border, the wind was in my face, and with the cold it was a bit of a fight. But when I arriveed there I made a break in front of the church, where a couple of minutes later a wedding took place. The people where showing up in the traditional cloths, a little chapel was playing, really beautiful.
Right after crossing the border, in Vitanova, I realized that the lunch, which was more a snack, that I bought with my zloty was really not enough. The cold plus the more demanding terrain asked for a warm meal. So I did a second lunch break.
The road towards Zuberec lead through a small vally. Nice street, low traffic and sheltered from the wind those was a really nice ride. There was a little rain, which I bearly noticed, since I got more wet from sweating, so no diving suit needed.
In Zuberec after crossing another pass, I was wondering weather to head for the next towards Liptovsky Mikolas. But it was past four, and at six is sunset (more than and hour earlier then when I left from Dresden), furthermore black clouds where bulging over the mountains further south, so I called it a day.