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19 Oct 2011

Day 43: Dunafalva-Sombor

Yesterdays sunset was truly amazing. One of these calm moments again. I heard and owl, the mice in the grass, a woodpecker and of course dogs. There was a lot of barking throughout the night, sometimes it sounded very close. In the middle of the night a stray dog woke me up barking a couple of meters away. That son of a b... had me worried for a moment. With this kind of dog you never know where you're at. As it went away I was praying that it would not return with its clan. It didn't.
Today the weather was great, sunny and windy but warm air. So I took off the long trousers, riding only in my sexy biker tights.
First I went to Monacs, crossing the Duna with the ferry. Here is a great example of how people react on the small Joda statue sitting over my front wheel: So I was asked for a ticket, and I asked in retun if I can't get its directly from him. Then he waved me through and his younger college commented: "welcome aboard master Joda". After having spent the rest of the money for toothpaste, food and coffee, I went towards the Croatian border. The wind blew straight in my face, but I leaned forward, putting my elbows on the handlebar and curved my back. Anyway my biker tights gave no surface for the wind to be caught in.
The kids here were funny, they would shout hello until I greeted back. Usually its was one time, but in case the noise from, the wind in my ears would not let me hear them, they kept insisting. Also I got the impression that more and more people waved while passing, the further I got south. In Poland, although the people are friendly and helpful when approached, greeting a stranger one a touring bike is not a custom there.
A few kilometers later, in Batina, I, crossed another border, this time to Serbia. At the other side of the bridge, crossing the Duna a second time, I needed to get my passport out for the first time. After getting it stamped there was a sign in the middle of the road, that said "border" again. I wondered... A guy one front of my did with his car what I was about to do too with my bike; turning around the thing. But as he did so a Lady came running out of a cabine and ordered him back. And of course she did not leave its at the question if he has to declare something, but he had to open the trunk and the bags in it. "ei ei", I thought. When it was my turn I answered her "no, nothing to declare." She said: "open the bag!" I said: "which one?" She pointed at the left at the back. "what's in there?" She inquired. While slowly fingering with the tent on top, to take it offfor easier access to the bag in qestion, I answered: "a sleeping bag, spare cables for the gear shift and tent accessories." In the mean time another car queued up behind me and she waved me through before she'd seen any of the content.
In Serbia I felt a bit disorientated for a moment. The osm is very incomplete for this area. Then clouds started covering the sky and I decided to head for Sombor and looks for a pension instead of camping. Also my guide mentions the uncleared mine fields, which should not be a problem, just avoid going where since 10 years nobody left a trace. Hmm, right... It still left an uncomfortable aftertaste.