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Showing posts with label Serbia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Serbia. Show all posts

1 Jan 2012

Gratitude

One Thing I planned to do for some time now and is a bit overdue by now. Here is to prayers:


Danke
Dziękuję barzo
Dakujem vám
Köszönöm
Hvala lepa
Puno hvala
Hvala Vam
Faleminderit shumë
Blagodaram
Mnogo blagodarya
Efharisto poli
Çok teşekkür ederim

... to the lands and its peoples. I had the privilege to see the best of you.

22 Oct 2011

Day 46: Novi Sad-Bijeljina

I slept badly and not enough. First it's was cloudy than it was raining and cold.
Smoke and exhaust fumes filled the air. Some of the trucks drivers drove like completly nuts. A lot of waste lay around, sometimes piles of it, sometimes the piles were burnig.
In the Fruska Gora Park I was thinking about trying a trail until I heard and saw motocross bikers. A bit later a puppy lying in the middle of the street in its freshly spiled blood.
Fuck this day! My mood went from bad to worse.

Day 45: a rainy day in Novi Sad

The city has it's own, rough charm, but that's already as far as my description of the city goes, what follows has more to do with my mood and wandering thoughts and is not really tied to this particular location.
I went to the city center and there; Bata, Diesel, Mac Donalds, Fossil, Addidas, G-Shock, Coca-cola and many more of these logos were like a punch in my head. Not again for heavens sake! This triggered a thread of angry thoughts: So these are the symbols of progress, and wealth burnt in the heart of every city we call modern these days. The first thing to re-build. Is that fucking it?
All this aroud the church. -Some say the institutions that built these places of worship were as greedy and earthly as those occupying the fancy spots around cathedrals and churches today-. Whatever, but the artisans that built them gave it a soul. The hierarchy did not change much despite the revolutions, something else did. The builders today, I heard it myself, curse their work. This won't, can't last.
And of course a lot of cars, images of status and freedom we have lost and only exists in the bloody advertisements anymore that flicker over one of the many screens in front of you. Where is diversity? What about phantasy? What will be left of our work, once time worked it?
Right, what is left of phantasy and inspiration after we filtered it by mainstream, you find conserved, alienated by interpretations behind the vitrines of museums. Don't bother feeling what it might evoke, this thing you are not supposed to touch, just read the damn guide-book. And in the meantime we renovate what has lasted insted of creating novel beauty. Today I did not have the force to seek the magic in the details. Magic is subtle. Today I could not filter all the stuff that forces itself on you exploring any channels of human sensory input science has layed out recipes to control them. Today I was missing subtlety, could not see the beauty, today was just in my face. Looking at the obvious felt like starring at a void.
Suddenly values switch value...
Carry along, carry along the thread of thought it runs further, carry along!

21 Oct 2011

Day 44: Sombor-Novi Sad

After a good meal with a lot of meat and a good night of sleep, I got up at this rather cloudy day. I did not rain yet, apparently I drove away from it.
After breakfast out of my bag (pension here means just a bed), I took wolter and went south. It turned out I got very lucky with the wind the first 70 km of the day were like flying. For a change the sound of wolters tires was a lot louder than the wind in my ears. With an average speed 26+ km/h I impressed myself. And so I rode one the main road through a couple of Serbian villages. In the distance the air looked foggy, only it was smoke. The farmers all around burnt the remains of the harvested fields and the wind nourished the fire well and drove it over the fields. It was a weird atmosphere with the smoke and this smell of bonfire in the nose all the time. Memories called be this familiar sent of burned wood and the uncommon, slightly disturbing visuals collided.
Half way through this 70km in a small village, while making what was intended to be a small break for drinking and reloading some sugars, Dobrivoj crossed my path, asked where I'm from, and started a conversation the Basel football club , meeting Real Madrid switching from english to french while searching for words. He pointed out a small bar where we should meet for a coffee after he, took care of some quick busyness. A couple of minutes later he joined me there. He told me that he was a interpreter for the UN during the war. The conversation was popping between football, to the conflicts during the 90ies to family and back... And forth. In between there was a summary of the history of (ex) Jugoslavia. After and hour org so, a couple of cigarettes and too much coffee we went about our own busyness and ways again. Quite a character Mr. Dobryvoj (meaning "good man"). I was glad having met him.
In Backa Palanka, after this 70km, there was a running competition for kids, probably 1st to 9th grade. These kids running through town and cheering friends and parents, plus the sun comming out, gave my smoky impressions a new spin. It was fun to watch. Some gave it all, the older teenagers were walking while beeing as cool as possible. Hehe...
The last 40 km I went rode along closely the Duna again. The track one the dike was divers with it surfaces and some parts were a bit bumpy, perfect to complete the day. The effort was about the same but I'm convicted, that it was essentially the wind that made me go 6ter km/h slower. Wolter and me are by now very accomplished dealing with rougher terrain, actually we like it. on the other side the Duna I could see what we will soon face: hills and mountains... Couldn't make out any snow... Perfect.
While riding through the suburbs of Novi Sad, there where a couple of cows on the promenade. The had a short leash between the front legs, forcing them to make small steps. In Poland they had some kind of anchor they'd ram in the soil to chain the cows to it. Where I grew up, they use electric fences to stop the animals from running away. Interesting...
The city turned out to, be bigger that I pictured it. I quickly found myself a hostel and by the time I went out looking for something to eat, well... there. was the rain...
Finding a bar was not so easy. Most of the bars where sport bars where you can place bets. Not really my genre. Then I found this bar full of books. Nice. No wireless internet though. I will have to shoot this post through the ether yet somwhere else.

19 Oct 2011

Day 43: Dunafalva-Sombor

Yesterdays sunset was truly amazing. One of these calm moments again. I heard and owl, the mice in the grass, a woodpecker and of course dogs. There was a lot of barking throughout the night, sometimes it sounded very close. In the middle of the night a stray dog woke me up barking a couple of meters away. That son of a b... had me worried for a moment. With this kind of dog you never know where you're at. As it went away I was praying that it would not return with its clan. It didn't.
Today the weather was great, sunny and windy but warm air. So I took off the long trousers, riding only in my sexy biker tights.
First I went to Monacs, crossing the Duna with the ferry. Here is a great example of how people react on the small Joda statue sitting over my front wheel: So I was asked for a ticket, and I asked in retun if I can't get its directly from him. Then he waved me through and his younger college commented: "welcome aboard master Joda". After having spent the rest of the money for toothpaste, food and coffee, I went towards the Croatian border. The wind blew straight in my face, but I leaned forward, putting my elbows on the handlebar and curved my back. Anyway my biker tights gave no surface for the wind to be caught in.
The kids here were funny, they would shout hello until I greeted back. Usually its was one time, but in case the noise from, the wind in my ears would not let me hear them, they kept insisting. Also I got the impression that more and more people waved while passing, the further I got south. In Poland, although the people are friendly and helpful when approached, greeting a stranger one a touring bike is not a custom there.
A few kilometers later, in Batina, I, crossed another border, this time to Serbia. At the other side of the bridge, crossing the Duna a second time, I needed to get my passport out for the first time. After getting it stamped there was a sign in the middle of the road, that said "border" again. I wondered... A guy one front of my did with his car what I was about to do too with my bike; turning around the thing. But as he did so a Lady came running out of a cabine and ordered him back. And of course she did not leave its at the question if he has to declare something, but he had to open the trunk and the bags in it. "ei ei", I thought. When it was my turn I answered her "no, nothing to declare." She said: "open the bag!" I said: "which one?" She pointed at the left at the back. "what's in there?" She inquired. While slowly fingering with the tent on top, to take it offfor easier access to the bag in qestion, I answered: "a sleeping bag, spare cables for the gear shift and tent accessories." In the mean time another car queued up behind me and she waved me through before she'd seen any of the content.
In Serbia I felt a bit disorientated for a moment. The osm is very incomplete for this area. Then clouds started covering the sky and I decided to head for Sombor and looks for a pension instead of camping. Also my guide mentions the uncleared mine fields, which should not be a problem, just avoid going where since 10 years nobody left a trace. Hmm, right... It still left an uncomfortable aftertaste.