Gratitude

One Thing I planned to do for some time now and is a bit overdue by now. Here is to prayers:

Danke

Dziękuję barzo

Dakujem vám

Köszönöm

Hvala lepa

Puno hvala

Hvala Vam

Faleminderit shumë

Blagodaram

Mnogo blagodarya

Efharisto poli

Çok teşekkür ederim

... to the lands and its peoples. I had the privilege to see the best of you.

Day 62: Dubrovnik-Meljine

It was a cosy eavening with Paul, Micke, Jannis and Phil, accompanied by quite a bit of beers and wine. Outside a thunderstorm came over Dubrovnik and I was glad having made the decision too stay in a hostel. By the time I got to do my internet stuff it was late and when I was done with that, it was morning.
I had a turbulent sleep with crazy and chaotic dreams. Having still the camping rhythm, I got up shortly after seven, and the wine orgel the beers or the combination messed up my head a bit. After a long breakfast I went back one the road by 10. The wind was strong and the sea was rough. I had to climb the steep hills around Dubrovnik to join the main road towards the border. When I reached the crete, the wind smacked me around the head, that I was getting a bit dizzy. So after the climb I fought with head wind again, only today it was stronger thant ever before one my trip. I did not find the force to properly face up tom it, even after several breaks, I did not find enough strength to get into the flow. The air was warm, but the wind pulled a lot of heat and I, felt feverish.
Around three p.m. I finally reached Igalo, what I marked as first etape. It turned out to be the last one too. After having a coffee and hanging like hit on the head, half present, in a chair I set out too find a camping spot around four. I got luckey and found a camping site between the small towns, that even would accomodate me for free.
To boost the moral and strengthen my body I decided to eat in a restaurant. After some wandering around I found a nice one, where I got a veal soup, salad and beef steak. It was all fresh, even the fries, and very well made. While savouring this delight the following line crossed my mind:panta rhei! (cheers Marcel)

Day 61:Ploce-Dubrovnik

After I took my turn in cooking, filled my stomach and enjoyed a cigarette, we just lay there in the bright half moon light. It was a beautiful atmosphere.
I got a warm nights sleep and got eaten alive by these lovely mosquitoes. But beside having these beautiful beasts for company, the spot was really nice.There was a bit of rain, but the wind dried it off. Everyone was up early and after Peers fixed his tire we were back one the road. The English boys decided to make a tour in Bosnia, I wanted to get too Montenegro and so the time to part had come. And so we did, at the river after Ploce, they followed it upstream and I crossed it.
I decided to go for Dubrovnik, against previous intentions, to find a hostel and get cleaned up. The 100km with a strong head wind were a lot of, work. On the way there I met Andy from Australia, who headed back too Spain where he started his trip, to go to Morocco. Yep, and the rest was work, the beautiful landscape did not manage to take off my head from the pain in my legs. Somewhere in between I crossed Bosnia. Weird, that border. Geologically it does not make sense, just another border one our heads.
The entry to Dubrovnik was impressive. The city is, a beauty. But tourism is bit like erosion one it.
The first hostel I tried was closed, the second one was a hive. Germans, Australians, a French guy and a Croatian keeper.
I lost a game of chess while drinking wine. A nice eavening,, but erosion will wash me away tomorrow. I look forward to montenegro and I'm curious if the mountains will let me pass.

Day 60: Slime-Ploce

Sleeping well seems to become a habit. We continend our journey along the river, up this beautiful valley. The surrounding mountains were just spectacular. The little villages nuzzeled in the smaller hills in the village looked cute. Everywhere the people are harvesting the olives now. It seems most of the trees belong to smaller private properties and people handpick them. I will try to find some cold pressed oil here. must be brilliant...can't wait to, taste it.
At the coast the wind greated us again and slowed us down one the ride downhill, that the use of breaks even one the rather steep road were hardly necessary.
Slowly it got dark and we had non luck finding a place to stay for the night at the coast. So we kept riding into the night, lit our lights and some had reflecting jackets. Only.when the main road took use away from the coast, we found a spot near a couple of lakes. It was nice and warm, but this met also that mosquitoes inhabited the place... Can't have it all.

Day 58: Turanj-Barnai

After a nice dinner and a lot of discussions with Toby, Peers, Mark, Dan and Jeremy, I slept through the night like a baby.
We joined the road at the coast again to head for Sibenik. On the way we past Gaku and stopped for a chat. After taking off again, Jeremys luggage carrier broke and we had to halt in Vodice to find parts to repair it. and while we were at it we went to tje beach to have lunch. I went for a swim the first time since I hit the coast. The water is beautiful and fresh.
It's weird travelling in a group of six people after two months on my own. I enjoy their company a lot. Some stuff is easier but a big group brings a certain inertia to decision making or stopping and taking off again.

Day 59: Barnai-Slime

Yesterdays experiment to cook one kilogramme of spaghetti in a small pan with less than two liters of water was a bit of a disaster, but Jeremys sauce pulled it off and covered the taste of burnt spaghetti.
I slept very well, but getting up was a bit harder today. The tent looked as it had rained from all the humidity.
When we got one tje road, there was a strong wind greeting us. The way towards the coast went up and down and ended in a nice ride downhill in a serpentine road with and amazing view. Then it got a bit stressful, with all the traffic around the town Split. We tried to find some quiter roads, succeeded, but the price was a climbing through the small hills around the area.
Towards the eavening we chose a road taking us away from the coast into a small narrow valley. Tjere we found a nice camping spot close by the river. The bath was very refreshing. Dinner was delicious. After we sat around the bonfire, where it was nice and warm. First fire I made while camping. And in the later eavening we hat a little cat as a guest, which was desperately looking foor food. At first shy but then very affectionate, she was hanging around, beeing petted by one half and chased away by the other half of our bunch.

Day 57: Zadar-Turanj

The first thing in the morning was organizing a new axes for the reaerear wheel, which I had broken yesterday, when I tightened the screws of the bike after cleaning and oiling the chain. I did not find exactly what I wanted but it does the job. After I installed it I packed the bags and went off, still early enough to make a good distance.
After an hour I stopped for an espresso at a small cafe with a nice terrasse. When I wanted to lock the bike my hand was grasping nothing, where there should have been the lock. I had my espresso and decided to go back and fetch the lock I left one the stairs of the hostel.
Another hour later I had 40km one the counter and got back my lock.
As I went to fetch a slice of pizza, I saw one the central square a couple of bikes, and a guy sitting in the middle of them.
The guy introduced himself as Peers from England and he was keeping the place while his friends where spread out to take care of stuff. After talking for a while, I got to know more of his frieds and talking a bit more, I decided to join them heading down the coast, since we all head to Istanbul. A cool bunch.
Together we headed out for another 40 in the late afternoon and found us a spot to camp.

Day 56: Zadar

When I woke up this morning it was definite, I would stay this day in the city.
Yesterday Max, an Australian backpacker, and me went for a couple of beers. He is on the road for quite some time too. What he told me about Split and Dubrovnik confirmed my feeling, that these cities might not what I'm looking for. Today he took off to Plitvicka and I went wandering around the city. They have this organ here at the pears, that is played be the sea, more specifically by its waves. But the sea was calm this morning so most of the sound was produced by waves from the passing boats.
Today is also all saints, a good day to visit the graveyards, and where people usually go shopping it becomes as quite like on a graveyard.
In the early afternoon when I came back to the hostel to eat a bite, I met Gaku from Japan. He is also travelling by bike and its turned out he is one of the crazy guys that rode from Alaska to Patagonia, which took him two years. Now he started in Spain and is heading east... you get the idea...
Before sunset I went back to the sea-organ. Now there was some wind comming from north stirring up the sea a bit. I lay there and listened to this concert while then sun was going down, down, down.

Day 55: Novalja-Zadar

A beautiful day. And my sunglasses had broken weeks ago, and I never was urged to replace them until today. So after breakfast I went looking for new ones, tried a couple of shops and ended up finding some polarised glasses, that I liked too much after making the mistake to try them on, even though they were not exactly the price range I was looking for. But the shopkeeper made a really an offer I could not refuse (if I declined I probably would have ended up shooting myself later). So I came about the cheapest polarised sunglasses I ever had.
After some food shopping and sewing my lycras (soon I have no textiles anymore I did not need to fix) I was ready for takeoff, much later than usual.
Nice roads...
After an hour I stopped to check the maps, and there was a red cat "saying hello". I crossed the street to join him and play a bit. He made the impression of having a lot to tell. I enjoyed his company and I understood, that so did he. Then the owner of the farm close by arrived. He was taking off his helmet when a car passt and hit something. He did not notice the incident, he just asked: "problem?" When he saw me starring at the street and muttering something. A cat got hit. She was bearly able to make a noise, could not move her hind legs but was struggling to get back on her feet. I stood there helpless and troubled, then heard another car approaching, and not wanting her to get hit again, I went to take her off the street. When I lifted her up, I felt that her back was broken and that she must have had suffered severe internal injury. I put her down beside the street. The farmer made a gesture indicating that she would die. I stroked her head, she stopped struggling and died moments later. I wanted to close her eyes, but did not manage (never works like in the movies). The red cat came, started to clean her and then lay down by her side, purring. The farmer pointed out to me, that she was his mother and that the two of them are very effective in chasing down the mice on his property. I then realized, that the mother-cat was probably coming to greet the farmer upon his arrival when she left her life on the road.
It turned out to be a sad day too.
The farmer told me that he would berry her, took of to get a shovel and said goodbye. I took my bike and drove away to the next bar, to have a coffee and write this down.

The next two hours on the road I was like glued to the saddle and felt a bit numb while the thoughts were rambling in my head.
When my head finally cleared, I decided to go to Zadar, the first bigger city I visit in Croatia, stay a night, maybe two and skip Split and Dubrovnik.
I arrived im the old town and found a hostel without trouble. This part of the city is packed with houses, narrow little roads winding their way between them. The stones the streets and stairs are made of, are worn off. This place has lived for along time already and it bears the marks of it, which in my eyes given iron a lot of character. but maybe it is a bit like with people; some age well, others less.

Day 53: Otocac-Novalja

Getting up was hard again, however, to my own surprise, at 9 a.m. I was one the road. Today I had the streets mostly for myself. The sky was covered, as always for the past 15 days or so, but I would arrive at the coast today...
The route I chose turned out to be brilliant, there would have been "easy" options but I went through the mountains. Maybe this is the last time I can climb higher than 1000m without having to cope with snow this year. Before I had to tackle the first mountain, I saw, that they reach up to the clouds, that hid their cretes. Good I thought, maybe they even reach above the clouds, where I could meet the sun.
After gaining 400m, I reached the first small pass, after which I plunged into the higher valley and started climbing again. I reached the clouds and drove through the mystic landscape circling around mountaintops, crossing small passes into the next valley. The woods were beautiful and silent. Finally, scratching at the 1500m, parts of the now rockyer mountains where lighted by the sun and on the pass before the last, I found my sunny spot. Big time for a longer break, drying the wet cloth and just be. When I took of I thought the rest is down hill and put my raincoat again (taking it one and off was a sport of its own) then I took a wrong turn, but luckily realized before having rode downhill too far. Turing back, thinking of the other road that I was supposed to take, I thought; "hmm, if this streach also goes up the road down must be really steep." The last vally to cross was quite spectacular. The road cut the slope high and down at the bottom of the valley there where a lot of old stone walls forming an interesting pattern. In the meantime the sky was covered again. And there its was tje last pass. I crossed, went a couple of dozen , meters downhill and it was as I hoped; the clouds were contained in the kettle I left behind and beneath me there was an incredible sight: the trees glowing in all different colors, in between the light gray rocks and what I mistook for a moment for another fog sea, was actually the real sea. And here words are just not enough this ride down towards the sea was just to die for. Getting lower I felt the warm air and enjoyed the sensation of my fingers were thawing. And then... The smell of pine trees. God! This is crazy!
I watched the first part of sunset while waiting for the ship setting over to the island of Pag. In the middle of the island there is a small mountain chain from north to south, hiding the rest of the spectacle when I arrived on the island. So I mobilised the rest of force to get quickly one the other side of the mountains to see the rest. The sun was already down when I arrived on the hilltop breath like a bull, but the sky was a deep read. I checked the time: quarter past five. No clouds and its getting dark earlier even then the past two days? I was also wondering in the morning before seven, when I awoke, it was bright outside. Jep right...
The camping was already closed I, figured out upon arrival. So I settled in a hostel. Fine with me. Anyway I deserve this bed after this workout (100km, 2100m).

Day 53: Plitvicka-Otocac

This morning, when the alarm was ringing, a struggle began in my half conscious, mind to get up. Just five more minutes...
Yesterday Nik was hosting a dinner. Baked patatoes with with ham and sausages and other meat. Of course everything was accompanied with more beer and later Rakie (schnapps made of plums). It was simple and damn good. Many thanks to Nik, Tiho, Martin and the wild bunch.
Once I got up I went to the lakes again and did, what I first was a bit reluctant about, proper sightseeing. Since I wanted to make some way towards the coast the same day, I concentrated on the central lakes and wandered around for about three hours. It was mindblowing. Here it is not long anymore before the leafs will be fallen and right about now the colors are amazing. The water forming rivers, lakes and waterfalls in various shades of green and blue and white was stunning me throughout that trip. It was drizzling and fog was adding magic to this hole scenery. First I was worried but this place must look beautiful in whatever weathered.
After a coffee for lunch I went towards Otocac. The choice of roads turned out to be excellent. The atmosphere with the fog was impressive contrasted with the intense autumn colours and became a spooky accent once a couple of house ruins emerged from the myst. After a small climb, the little road joined a bigger one at the border of the natural reserve. This road lead, after a little descent into this valley on about 700 m a.s. The surrounding mountains where covered with the colorfull forests and my awe continued.
During some discussions yesterday I found out, that instead of complaining about the absence of the sun, I should be glad, not having to cope with snow. And in this matter my worries about Macedonia are increasing.
However this was by far the most brilliant hangover day ever! I actually forgot about it most of the day. Only when I hit a bump, the little shock provoked a reminding little pain in my head.

Day 52: Bihac-Plitvicka Jezara

Well I bearly made it over the border today...
I think I need pause of a day org two.
But let's start where I left of yesterday. Bihac was interesting, I did not really take the time to sightsee, it was soon getting dark, and then I was too busy enjoying the apartment (motel), hanging out doing internet stuff and mostly doing nothing. However center of the city is separated by water channels, that indicate the outlines of the ancient town. What was furthermore striking where the bullet marked facades of a couple of buildings, until now the traces of last millenniums war never where that obvious.
The road towards the frontier lead over some hills, through Zacic. On the way there I first heard, then saw a swarm of "Stare" (the elvis presley beards). They already caught my attention yesterday and it was a nice surprise to see them again. The swarm must count about several hundred birds (difficult to, estimate) and I had the impression it was bigger than yesterday (if it was the same). I love these birds. They can fly really well an d sing like stars (as the name suggests). Now what was new to me is to see them flying as a swarm. I've seen crows, pigeons and others flying in, formation, but the "Stars" really have a beautiful fluid style, a bit like a fish swarm. They also have a characteristic shape, that results in different silhouettes depending on the perspective and while their upper side is pitch black, the lower side is a gray brown. Now all these characteristics and their amazing coordination as a swarm make it a real spectacle to watch them fly together. While the taken their breaks and feed, they make a lot of noise and before they take off, they all become silent. Now discovery channel reporters, let me ask while they are together, does their "singing" also fullfile the sole purpose to mark their, territory? Would be kind of stupid, wouldn't it? I can't help it but to find these explanations given on wild life programmes unsatisfactory. The recipe seems to be; take, the most primitive actions that occur to you, while you try to think like an animal. What really did not change much from church to, science is the arrogance of humans (first we are the masterpiece of gods creation and the we call ourselves as the peak of evolution). Whatever... This was a little excursion from observations to an extrcat of a thread of thought occurring while spending a lot of time pedaling.
When I arrived at these famous lakes, I tried to figure how best to explore them. It takes time and there was not mutch left to be spent in, daylight today. Furthermore it's disneyland here, busses and boats and you have to buy tickets to get close to the lakes, all very complicated. So I took a private room in the village nearby, got to know some locals and spent the rest of the afternoon drinking beer with them.

Day 43: Dunafalva-Sombor

Yesterdays sunset was truly amazing. One of these calm moments again. I heard and owl, the mice in the grass, a woodpecker and of course dogs. There was a lot of barking throughout the night, sometimes it sounded very close. In the middle of the night a stray dog woke me up barking a couple of meters away. That son of a b... had me worried for a moment. With this kind of dog you never know where you're at. As it went away I was praying that it would not return with its clan. It didn't.
Today the weather was great, sunny and windy but warm air. So I took off the long trousers, riding only in my sexy biker tights.
First I went to Monacs, crossing the Duna with the ferry. Here is a great example of how people react on the small Joda statue sitting over my front wheel: So I was asked for a ticket, and I asked in retun if I can't get its directly from him. Then he waved me through and his younger college commented: "welcome aboard master Joda". After having spent the rest of the money for toothpaste, food and coffee, I went towards the Croatian border. The wind blew straight in my face, but I leaned forward, putting my elbows on the handlebar and curved my back. Anyway my biker tights gave no surface for the wind to be caught in.
The kids here were funny, they would shout hello until I greeted back. Usually its was one time, but in case the noise from, the wind in my ears would not let me hear them, they kept insisting. Also I got the impression that more and more people waved while passing, the further I got south. In Poland, although the people are friendly and helpful when approached, greeting a stranger one a touring bike is not a custom there.
A few kilometers later, in Batina, I, crossed another border, this time to Serbia. At the other side of the bridge, crossing the Duna a second time, I needed to get my passport out for the first time. After getting it stamped there was a sign in the middle of the road, that said "border" again. I wondered... A guy one front of my did with his car what I was about to do too with my bike; turning around the thing. But as he did so a Lady came running out of a cabine and ordered him back. And of course she did not leave its at the question if he has to declare something, but he had to open the trunk and the bags in it. "ei ei", I thought. When it was my turn I answered her "no, nothing to declare." She said: "open the bag!" I said: "which one?" She pointed at the left at the back. "what's in there?" She inquired. While slowly fingering with the tent on top, to take it offfor easier access to the bag in qestion, I answered: "a sleeping bag, spare cables for the gear shift and tent accessories." In the mean time another car queued up behind me and she waved me through before she'd seen any of the content.
In Serbia I felt a bit disorientated for a moment. The osm is very incomplete for this area. Then clouds started covering the sky and I decided to head for Sombor and looks for a pension instead of camping. Also my guide mentions the uncleared mine fields, which should not be a problem, just avoid going where since 10 years nobody left a trace. Hmm, right... It still left an uncomfortable aftertaste.