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13 Nov 2011

Day 68: Theth-Shkoder

The sun was already over the mountain tops of the steep valley, when I got outside. I got a good breakfast before leaving. The feta was home made and tasted brilliant, accompanied by some savoury pan cakes and honey.
The discussions about the road to Valbona and another look at the high and steep mountains brought me to the decision of taking the road through the vally south of the one I came through yesterday, heading back to Skoder. It was a bit painful having to go back, but the road further east takes 6 hours for a good hiker. Furthermore last night was very cold and risking having to pass the night another 1000m up is asking for serious trouble. However the trip was already worth it anyway, also if it turned out to be a detour on my way east.
The river I followed this time had a lot of water and was a real beauty. As yesterday the weather was sunny, not a cloud one the sky and the air was dry, clear and cold. At one of the rapids I lingered a bit, observing the water working the stones forming eddies that threw shadows on the ground. The stones were white-gray and the water green-blue. Actually later one was very transparent and I wondered where its colors come from.
And then the stony road went up, up. After then first pass it went a bit down and then up again. It was hard work with then sun in my face. But during the breaks I forgot time and fatigue letting my eyes wander over this amazing landscape. The trees still have some leaves...
Before I reached then second pass, I realized that I underestimated the difficult road again and I was short one time again. Before the downhill ride started I dried my clothes and put the rain protection for the shoes to keep the wind off. The valley I descened into bacame an impressive canyon. But it was hard work riding this road. It went down hard on material (the hook of one front bag broke off and the wheels will need some maintenance) and my, endurance.
When I arrived in Precal, where the road finally got a bit better it was past four. There was a bar and I took a coffee, Iibought some sugar-stuff and asked if there is a place to stay. In Shkoder there is, was the answer. So I rode into the night and arrived around six. Luckily the road was asphalted...
I went back to that traditional place I noticed when I first arrived in Shkoder. There I welcomed by the owner himself, who invited me for a rakie, saying this would warm me up. He grew up in Belgium and we had a nice chat in french. He also told me a bit about Albanian history. It was a very, nice welcome back in this city.