The bus ride from Chalus to Tehran was quite spectacular, first through the forest, that is also referred to as jungle by some locals, then into the valley that was getting steeper and narrower as we progressed, the pass was hidden in, the clouds and on the other side all the green and the trees were gone. This is a natural frontier.
I dozed off a couple of times and when I woke up on the west station of Tehran I was very disorientated and walked around the station looking for infos and food for more than and hour. I managed to eat something, but orientation would only be re-established once I got moving again. So I avoided public transport, especially metro and tackled the city by foot to get a feel for its dimensions, in any case it was too late already to visit some embassies. After a couple of hours I, did not get very far, but I came across a internet coffee where I filled out forms read mails. In a park I found refuge from the traffic and its noise to rest my, feet and have a siesta. I the eavening I met Rza I know from Istanbul, which was a nice reunion.
The next day I went to the Uzbekistan Consulat and from there I was sent to my embassy to get the recommendation letter. Apparently all of the Stans want this letter if you don't apply at their embassy in your home country.
So after having lost a day, I managed to apply in, the second attempt. At the consulat I met Marcos again, whom I've met yesterday shortly, today he was with his travel companion Ismael. We decided to go for a tea together after we handed over the documents. On the way to the metro we got picked up by military police, they took our passports and all electronic devices and brought us to their station. Everything got looked at; notebooks, photos... When the first pair of interrogators were finished, a new pair in civil showed up, one of them speaking english. Now we found out at last why we were here, apparently we crossed a sensitive area and the guard suspected us to have filmed or taken pictures. It is true that I had my mobile out to taken a picture of the city with my back to the gate that was guarded by uniformed men. Having read the instructions from the embassy where it says that photographing any military, police or governmental building is prohibited, I thought to be on the save side by not pointing the device at the guards. It turns out you should not taken the camera out at all when you are close to such a thing, do not even think picture!
Then the same questions all over again. After three hours we were drove back to the station and put in a taxi going to the centre, but not before they gave us some lunch. The hole procedure was thorough but rather politely executed.
Back in the centre we finally got our tea together. Marcos and Ismael have planed quite a tour through central asia ending in Nepal. Obviously there was a lot to talk about and after tea we went for dinner in a nice traditional place. The food was good and we hopped between visa stuff to travel experiences, bikes (obviously) and somewhere in between european economy popped up (probably my fault).
Friday nothing goes concernig visa stuff and also otherwise most things rest. But Langtunes, a local band, gave a concert that day. It felt a bit following the traces of the movie 'No one knows about Persian Cats'.
Saturday I went to get the visa extension. After having to answer a lot of questions to my person and travelling plans, I was brought to the Colonel who told me that I would need a recommendation letter from my embassy and that I would not get more than 15 days. That came as a shock. My informations were that it is usual to get an extension of 30 days without trouble. I tried to insist to get at least a attestation that I commenced the extension procedure, since my visa was about to expire, but I left with nothing but a numb head. I went and sat in the next caffee for an hour, starring at the wall while in my head the different horror-scenarios cascaded one after another. Today was Saturday, so the Swiss Embassy is closed. I took a second attempt and went back to the foreign police. This time I met another applicant who lived the last 40 years here. He had a lot of experience, was talking fluent english (unlike the employees here) and managed to give me back hope. I left the station again without any of the documents I came for (visa, attestation) but with hope that it will be fine.
This early Sunday morning I got to the Swiss embassy to get the requested letter. After some questions where my answers caused some head shaking, the lady at the reception started to work on it. It is generally a bad idea to do things at the last moment, but applying for an Iranian visa extension in Tehran on the last two days before expiration is a particularly bad idea. The liaison agent Mr.Salahi came up with the following solution: The Swiss embassy writes a recommendation for me to Irans foreign Ministry and they instruct the foreign police (a.k.a. alien police) to give the extension. It so happend that Mr. Salahi went to the foreign Ministry anyway and offered to take me along and help me get the documents. After two hours in the Swiss embassy I sat in the car back downtown. Another half an hour I got the letter and was on the way to the alien police. Quite amazing to see how Mr. Salahi glided seemingly without effort through this administrational procedures.
At the police station I finally got the forms. Then I, was taken again to the top floor, where the special security officers who interrogated me yesterday had to, give their approval. Then I had to run to the bank to deposit the fees and finally I was instructed to pick up the passport with the extension in two days. Oufff, I bought myself some time with a lot of help, now I'm just wondering if I get the requested 20 days.
Monday was my day off. I was with Rza at his place. All physical activity was twenty minutes of basketball, having left the house without a water we did not withstand the midday sun for long.
Tuesday I went to get my passport at the alien police. The extension was for fifteen instead of the requested 20 days. Afterwards I met Niloo, a friend I had the pleasure to meet the first time in Istanbul. She stayed there for a couple of months with the idea of maybe settling there, but it is not easy starting off with nothing there and so she came back to Tehran. She took met to a really cool cafe, where we got time to discuss stuff.
I the eavening I thought the schedule through with the 13 days that I have left in Iran. So the Ouzbekistan visa would be ready on Thursday if everything goes smoothly. With a bit of luck I'd manage to handover the copy of the visa and my passport to the Turkmenistan consulat. One day to travel back to Chalus, riding to Mashad in four days is impossible for me (almost 200 km for four days in a row) so I have to taken a bus for whatever distance isch left to be on the fifth day (after Tehran) at the Turkmenistan consulat in Mashad. If the transit visa is in my hands the day later, I just would have time to get to, the border with two days of margin. Since this schedule was rather tight and everything had to get through in the first attempt I had little hope that this is going to happen.
I told the guys at the alien police that a 15 days extension is barley enough to make the visas needed to continue, now even with the letter from the foreign ministry, asking for not much more, they just gave me time to fuck off, because once the extension was handed over day two of it was already gone.
Accordingly moral was low when I met Carlos and Ismael for lunch. Those poor guys had to listen to my never ending rant. But Carlos gave met a bit hope back.
Wednesday I thought about a plan B. I decided not to taken anymore chances, if tomorrow I don't get the Ouzbekistan visa, Central Asia is out of the race.
So back to Turkey or Armenia I don't want to go. Azerbaijan requires a visa, from hearing not the easiest to get. Pakistan is probably even more complicated. Afghanistan without careful preparation would be suicidal. So that would only leave The United Arabic Emirates asr the next closest neighbour. That bad thing here is that I would bridge the 1000-whatever kilometres with a train to get to the south before my visa expires again.
On Thursday I went together with Ismael to the Ouzbekistan consulat. As the cycloreveurs warned us this day is agency day and even though we arrived half and hour before the offices open the waiting list was long. I managed to talk to one of the agents and he let met cut the queue. The secretary later told me that since yesterday was their national day the visa would not be ready before sunday and she added that she is sorry. I answered: 'not as sorry as I am.' Then I explained my iranian visa situation and told her to cancel the application.
I said goodbye to Ismael and Marcos and went to the bus terminal west.
I was something between very close to explode and released. My budget was getting a bit tight to venture into that visa country region in the north, true, but now I would go from being a traveller by bicycle to a traveller with a bycicle and this bloody hurts my ego.
Finally it was not the difficult terrain or the turkish winter and my body braved all the challanges great so far, it was the fucking bureaucracy that got me.
I made two major mistakes I want to mention so maybe others won't find themselves in my situation:
1) I heard from several sources that the iranian visa extension is easily obtainable in Isfahan or Shiraz
2) The Ouzbekistan visa is obtainable within one day if you got a letter of invitation, that can be issued by Stantours and sent directly to the consulat. This is the case even though on offices web sites it is specifically mentioned that for several countries (including Switzerland, I back checked with our embassy in Ouzbekistan) the LOI is not needed.
I dozed off a couple of times and when I woke up on the west station of Tehran I was very disorientated and walked around the station looking for infos and food for more than and hour. I managed to eat something, but orientation would only be re-established once I got moving again. So I avoided public transport, especially metro and tackled the city by foot to get a feel for its dimensions, in any case it was too late already to visit some embassies. After a couple of hours I, did not get very far, but I came across a internet coffee where I filled out forms read mails. In a park I found refuge from the traffic and its noise to rest my, feet and have a siesta. I the eavening I met Rza I know from Istanbul, which was a nice reunion.
The next day I went to the Uzbekistan Consulat and from there I was sent to my embassy to get the recommendation letter. Apparently all of the Stans want this letter if you don't apply at their embassy in your home country.
So after having lost a day, I managed to apply in, the second attempt. At the consulat I met Marcos again, whom I've met yesterday shortly, today he was with his travel companion Ismael. We decided to go for a tea together after we handed over the documents. On the way to the metro we got picked up by military police, they took our passports and all electronic devices and brought us to their station. Everything got looked at; notebooks, photos... When the first pair of interrogators were finished, a new pair in civil showed up, one of them speaking english. Now we found out at last why we were here, apparently we crossed a sensitive area and the guard suspected us to have filmed or taken pictures. It is true that I had my mobile out to taken a picture of the city with my back to the gate that was guarded by uniformed men. Having read the instructions from the embassy where it says that photographing any military, police or governmental building is prohibited, I thought to be on the save side by not pointing the device at the guards. It turns out you should not taken the camera out at all when you are close to such a thing, do not even think picture!
Then the same questions all over again. After three hours we were drove back to the station and put in a taxi going to the centre, but not before they gave us some lunch. The hole procedure was thorough but rather politely executed.
Back in the centre we finally got our tea together. Marcos and Ismael have planed quite a tour through central asia ending in Nepal. Obviously there was a lot to talk about and after tea we went for dinner in a nice traditional place. The food was good and we hopped between visa stuff to travel experiences, bikes (obviously) and somewhere in between european economy popped up (probably my fault).
Friday nothing goes concernig visa stuff and also otherwise most things rest. But Langtunes, a local band, gave a concert that day. It felt a bit following the traces of the movie 'No one knows about Persian Cats'.
Saturday I went to get the visa extension. After having to answer a lot of questions to my person and travelling plans, I was brought to the Colonel who told me that I would need a recommendation letter from my embassy and that I would not get more than 15 days. That came as a shock. My informations were that it is usual to get an extension of 30 days without trouble. I tried to insist to get at least a attestation that I commenced the extension procedure, since my visa was about to expire, but I left with nothing but a numb head. I went and sat in the next caffee for an hour, starring at the wall while in my head the different horror-scenarios cascaded one after another. Today was Saturday, so the Swiss Embassy is closed. I took a second attempt and went back to the foreign police. This time I met another applicant who lived the last 40 years here. He had a lot of experience, was talking fluent english (unlike the employees here) and managed to give me back hope. I left the station again without any of the documents I came for (visa, attestation) but with hope that it will be fine.
This early Sunday morning I got to the Swiss embassy to get the requested letter. After some questions where my answers caused some head shaking, the lady at the reception started to work on it. It is generally a bad idea to do things at the last moment, but applying for an Iranian visa extension in Tehran on the last two days before expiration is a particularly bad idea. The liaison agent Mr.Salahi came up with the following solution: The Swiss embassy writes a recommendation for me to Irans foreign Ministry and they instruct the foreign police (a.k.a. alien police) to give the extension. It so happend that Mr. Salahi went to the foreign Ministry anyway and offered to take me along and help me get the documents. After two hours in the Swiss embassy I sat in the car back downtown. Another half an hour I got the letter and was on the way to the alien police. Quite amazing to see how Mr. Salahi glided seemingly without effort through this administrational procedures.
At the police station I finally got the forms. Then I, was taken again to the top floor, where the special security officers who interrogated me yesterday had to, give their approval. Then I had to run to the bank to deposit the fees and finally I was instructed to pick up the passport with the extension in two days. Oufff, I bought myself some time with a lot of help, now I'm just wondering if I get the requested 20 days.
Monday was my day off. I was with Rza at his place. All physical activity was twenty minutes of basketball, having left the house without a water we did not withstand the midday sun for long.
Tuesday I went to get my passport at the alien police. The extension was for fifteen instead of the requested 20 days. Afterwards I met Niloo, a friend I had the pleasure to meet the first time in Istanbul. She stayed there for a couple of months with the idea of maybe settling there, but it is not easy starting off with nothing there and so she came back to Tehran. She took met to a really cool cafe, where we got time to discuss stuff.
I the eavening I thought the schedule through with the 13 days that I have left in Iran. So the Ouzbekistan visa would be ready on Thursday if everything goes smoothly. With a bit of luck I'd manage to handover the copy of the visa and my passport to the Turkmenistan consulat. One day to travel back to Chalus, riding to Mashad in four days is impossible for me (almost 200 km for four days in a row) so I have to taken a bus for whatever distance isch left to be on the fifth day (after Tehran) at the Turkmenistan consulat in Mashad. If the transit visa is in my hands the day later, I just would have time to get to, the border with two days of margin. Since this schedule was rather tight and everything had to get through in the first attempt I had little hope that this is going to happen.
I told the guys at the alien police that a 15 days extension is barley enough to make the visas needed to continue, now even with the letter from the foreign ministry, asking for not much more, they just gave me time to fuck off, because once the extension was handed over day two of it was already gone.
Accordingly moral was low when I met Carlos and Ismael for lunch. Those poor guys had to listen to my never ending rant. But Carlos gave met a bit hope back.
Wednesday I thought about a plan B. I decided not to taken anymore chances, if tomorrow I don't get the Ouzbekistan visa, Central Asia is out of the race.
So back to Turkey or Armenia I don't want to go. Azerbaijan requires a visa, from hearing not the easiest to get. Pakistan is probably even more complicated. Afghanistan without careful preparation would be suicidal. So that would only leave The United Arabic Emirates asr the next closest neighbour. That bad thing here is that I would bridge the 1000-whatever kilometres with a train to get to the south before my visa expires again.
On Thursday I went together with Ismael to the Ouzbekistan consulat. As the cycloreveurs warned us this day is agency day and even though we arrived half and hour before the offices open the waiting list was long. I managed to talk to one of the agents and he let met cut the queue. The secretary later told me that since yesterday was their national day the visa would not be ready before sunday and she added that she is sorry. I answered: 'not as sorry as I am.' Then I explained my iranian visa situation and told her to cancel the application.
I said goodbye to Ismael and Marcos and went to the bus terminal west.
I was something between very close to explode and released. My budget was getting a bit tight to venture into that visa country region in the north, true, but now I would go from being a traveller by bicycle to a traveller with a bycicle and this bloody hurts my ego.
Finally it was not the difficult terrain or the turkish winter and my body braved all the challanges great so far, it was the fucking bureaucracy that got me.
I made two major mistakes I want to mention so maybe others won't find themselves in my situation:
1) I heard from several sources that the iranian visa extension is easily obtainable in Isfahan or Shiraz
2) The Ouzbekistan visa is obtainable within one day if you got a letter of invitation, that can be issued by Stantours and sent directly to the consulat. This is the case even though on offices web sites it is specifically mentioned that for several countries (including Switzerland, I back checked with our embassy in Ouzbekistan) the LOI is not needed.
